I received quite a response to the "Name That Stitch" feature in the last issue. Many readers really appreciated having the stitch conversion information from early 20th-century crochet patterns to today's standard American stitch definitions.

Reader Connie Blakely shared the following comments: "I loved the article "Name That Stitch" about abbreviations in vintage crochet. A friend recently gave me about 40 old Needlecraft magazines from 1917-1921 and I'm having a grand time reading them. I decided to try one of the crochet patterns for napkin rings and couldn't understand why my finished piece turned out way too large!"

I received the following from Marie Bragg: "I was interested in the information on the old-time crochet stitches. I learned to crochet from a lot of vintage crochet books that I collected in the 1960s. I did not know the difference in the stitch instructions and I always wondered why the new books showed the single crochet as a double. Now I know! Thanks for clearing this up."

A number of readers also wrote to tell me that the old stitch definitions are the same as those currently used in some non-American crochet publications.

Susan in Australia wrote: "Just thought I'd point out that the vintage terms you provided are also the current terms for a large part of the non-U.S. world. These are still the terms used in Australia, New Zealand and Great Britain, at least. I thought this info might save crocheters some confusion if they find Aussie patterns on the Internet. We, of course, have always had to cope with the fact that your terms are different than ours ... and cope we do quite happily!"

Lorna Klotz e-mailed me to say that: "The old crochet terminologies you stated in your article are actually European or British terms, while we in Canada and the United States use the modern-day definitions. I have been teaching crochet for years and these stitch differences are always discussed in class for the students who happen to buy a European or British book so they won't be frustrated when they start on their project."

Estelle, another of our Australian readers, wrote the following request regarding non-American sizing for crochet hooks: "I live in Australia and all of our crochet hooks are sized in millimeters. It would be great to see a conversion table in one of your e-newsletters to help out everyone in other parts of the world."

This is a great suggestion, Estelle! Following is a list of sizes for both yarn and thread crochet hooks. The yarn hook sizes give the U.S. letters and numbers, millimeter designations and the comparable U.K. sizes (where applicable). The thread hook sizes give the U.S. numbers, millimeters and comparable U.K. sizes (again, where applicable). While I have seen some slight variations in hook sizes in a number of other published charts, the conversions below seem to reflect the most commonly found designations.

It has taken a few issues, but at long last, here is another segment of Yarn Bits. This installment is devoted to questions about yarn substitutions. Perhaps you've had some of these same questions when wanting (or needing) to use a different yarn than is specified in a pattern. I hope the following answers will help!

• Q: My pattern calls for a certain brand of yarn that I can't find in local stores. What do I do now?
  
  A: Don't worry! Here's your chance to be really creative and make a unique project that's totally your own! Most yarn labels tell you the recommended gauge and needle or hook size. Read the label and purchase a yarn that comes closest to the specified gauge in your pattern. Making that all-important test swatch (as discussed in a previous segment of Yarn Bits) will help ensure that the substituted yarn will work in your particular pattern.
  
  
• Q: Can't I substitute yarn based on the number of plies?
  
  A: Some three- or four-ply yarns are very lightweight yarns. On the other hand, some one- or two-ply yarns are very bulky and heavy. Your best bet is to always substitute yarns based on the recommended gauge and needle or hook size listed on the yarn label to make sure it will match your pattern's specified gauge as closely as possible.
  
  
• Q: How important is yarn content when substituting?
  
  A: Yarn content can often be very important when substituting in particular projects. While certainly there are times when you can easily substitute a similar weight of cotton for wool, or acrylic for cotton, for example, always keep in mind what the project will be used for. A washcloth, for instance, would not be very practical stitched in wool or acrylic yarn; it's best when made with cotton yarn. Socks made with acrylic yarn do not wear as well as socks made with wool yarn.
  Substituting yarn with a different content than the one specified in a pattern can also affect how a finished item can be cared for (or not), as well as how it looks and feels. If you are combining different types of yarn in one project, make sure they all have the same washing instructions or you could be unpleasantly surprised when the wool yarn shrinks and the acrylic doesn't. You should also consider the texture and drapability of the yarn when substituting to ensure that your project will have the intended feel and look.

Substituting yarn in your project can be fun and give a whole new look to a crocheted item. Just remember to keep these important guidelines in mind and you'll have a successful finished project that is unique and all your own!